Installing your water heater

A STEP-BY-STEP DIY INSTALLATION PROCESS

The installation of a water heater depends on the system you select. The solar and thermodynamic models are complex and require the intervention of a qualified professional. By contrast, installing a conventional electric water heater is within your reach… Provided that you possess some experience in plumbing and electricity.

The right location

The closer the water heater will be to the drainage points (bathroom, kitchen, laundry room), the more efficient the installation will be: better comfort, immediate hot water, savings, and less water is used before it reaches the temperature needed. There are appliances that can be installed horizontally or vertically (wall mounted or floor standing) to facilitate the insertion in a closet, ventilated if possible. Important reminder: leave at least 50 centimeters of free space around the equipment to ease the installation and the maintenance. Please note that if the installation of an electric water heater is done in a wet room (bathroom...), it is mandatory to comply with the applicable specific standards. 

USERS PROTECTION AND APPLIANCE SAFE OPERATING

Electric appliances' protection level against splashing water is defined by their IP index which defines the safe installation areas for electric appliances when close to water drainage points.

Atlantic appliances have a high IP index up to IP 24 and can be installed in 2 or 3 areas of your bathroom depending on country regulation.

Atlantic products IP index guarantees safe operation.

PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

Essentially, the pressure relief valve protects the water heater from possible overpressure. Directly connected to the water heater (no shut-off valve nor pressure reducer), it balances out the pressure inside the appliance. To guarantee long-lasting operation, choose a stainless steel one resistant to water hardness. If pressure reaches above 5 bars, a pressure-reducer is highly recommended. It should be installed on the cold water inlet, before the pressure relief valve. 

TEMPERATURE LIMITER

Mandatory if you have plastic pipelines (PEX), for any major renovation or new installation. Like any thermostatic valve, a temperature limiter mixes the hot water from the tank and the cold water from the distribution system to avoid outlet burns. The temperature is limited to a maximum of 55 °C.  

BASE OR TRIPOD

Optional in some installations, it is mandatory for a vertically wall mounted water heater in absence of a load-bearing wall. The base or tripod makes its installation much easier. Only two attachment points are needed. Without a base, make sure you have tools and fasteners compatible with the type of wall. 

HYDRAULIC CONNECTIONS

For safety reasons, the hydraulic and electrical connections must only be carried out while the general power supply is off. It is a four-stage process:

  1. Attach the dielectric connection: It generally comes with the water heater. It removes galvanic torque (which leads to corrosion), protects electrical and electronic appliances, and isolates from stray currents. It must be attached to the hot water outlet (identifiable by its red color). Do not forget the gaskets.
  2. Seal with oakum, joint sealant, or even Teflon the threading from the cold water inlet (identifiable by its blue color). Then, screw the pressure relief valve onto it.
  3. Connect the drain valve to the pressure relief valve, to the wastewater drain.
  4. Connect the hot water outlet and the cold water inlet via the pressure relief valve to the dedicated hoses.

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS

For the electrical connections of the water heater, take a dedicated circuit using a solid copper cable (2.5mm² minimum). The protection consists of a 16A circuit breaker and a 30mA differential circuit breaker. For the installation of the appliance, follow the manufacturer's technical diagram and safety precautions. Do not forget the day/night switch connection if your appliance is fitted with one. Prior to closing the cover of your water heater, check the solidity of the electrical connections one last time.

START-UP PHASE

A simple procedure: slightly open a hot water tap, then, the water heater inlet to fill up the tank. The purpose of this operation is to remove the air inside the water tank. Once the water is flowing regularly, turn off the tap and wait for the water tank to be fully filled. Switch on the power for the first heating. If any, deactivate the day/night switch. The first heating takes, depending on the models, 1h30 to 8 hours. During that time, check the pressure relief valve. It must be dripping through the drain. After the first heating, check the tightness of the connections and flange. Re-tighten if necessary.